Ah, Roma—in August…. When the
tourists have descended and the locals have fled. And you find
yourself there on a holiday weekend, a Sunday at that—when many
dining establishments have closed—for the season. There’s only
one choice: head to le Jardin de Russie.
For years, Hotel de Russie attracted Europe’s best and
brightest—or at least its most wealthy and royal. But then the
war came, the second one, and the building was handed over to
Italian television—and it wasn’t until 2001 that the Rocco Forte
Collection reenvisioned the Hotel de Russie, making it once
again as celebrated as its history.
As for dining, it’s all about the garden. Dining at le Jardin de
Russie enables one an insider’s view of what lies behind so many
of those imposing portals situated all over Rome and Florence.
You walk through the minimalist lobby and a nearly-austere
lounge (both of which are perfect examples of how rooms can be
comfortable and welcoming when not overstuffed with….well,
stuff) and you follow the candlelight, out onto a large terrace
with wrought-iron tables, and then up a double-sided stone
staircase draped with vines, and there you are: atop a small
plateau, set with tables and surrounded by juniper and cypress,
and the buzz of fellow ex-pats, brimming with
self-congratulation at having had the good sense to find
themselves here on a warm summer’s night.
It’s all very Roman Holiday and the luscious brunette at the
table over near the staircase to the Pincio Hill where lies a
secret garden and butterfly oasis (funded by World Wildlife
Fund) might well be a minor European royal—about to run off with
her driver. Candlelight in summer is so romantic—alongside the
clink of crystal and silver alternating with the murmur of
conversation. Everyone’s glowing—and interested in who’s dining
at the next table.
Meanwhile, there’s the food: a perfectly-balanced summer salad,
a plate of pasta and tomatoes, the basil fragrancing the air—and
a bottle of Pinot. Conversation flows as smoothly as the service
is adept—and why not? Le Jardin de Russie is an oasis where
contentment reigns.
Best always,
Mark and Robert
