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Thursday eve in the East Village, a spring breeze blows through the
open doors -- and the circular front bar is dotted with locals. This
is COUNTER and very welcoming it is. A front bar/lounge with a
simple dining room just beyond, banquettes along the wall. The
details: a sprig of mint tucked into the cloth napkins tied with
brown string. A blueberry saketini is a most beautiful color. And
the food? A gazpacho unlike any other -- more a tomato water broth,
the essence of spring elegance. A raw shaved asparagus salad,
crunchy and fresh. Corn cakes so cleanly fried and sweet and plump.
A bed of spring ramps -- this is delicious fresh food which makes
you happy to be vegetarian. This is food which celebrates eating.
This is a restaurant which could well be a prototype for truly
global cuisine -- food you can eat and enjoy with no guilt. There's
a glow of happiness at COUNTER, for good reason. One caveat:
happiness is not cheap.
Best always,
Mark and Robert
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