| |
Upon first consideration, the cuisines of Brazil and
France might not seem the most harmonic combination—and yet, in
South Beach, at the Blue Door at the Delano, they marry beautifully:
the tropical sensuality of South America balanced by the refinement
of Europe.
Inside, the Philippe Starck-designed sleek and cool
white room induces a kind of Parisian languor—while dining al
fresco on The Terrace, the Delano’s lawn and pool sweeping out
toward the ocean, combines the sultriness of Rio with the chic of
St. Tropez.
As
for the food, Jeffrey Chodorow and Claude Troisgros mix some of the
best elements of two influential cuisines. For a starter, there’s a
Big Ravioli with taro root mousseline, white truffle oil and
mushroom foam—and a fragrance so intense as to be hypnotic.
Ask—beg—for more bread: you wouldn’t want to leave behind even a
scent in that bowl. There’s also a fine vegetarian pasta loaded
with slow-baked cherry tomatoes, baby eggplant, hearts of palm,
haricots verts, chanterelles, and artichokes served with crispy
tofu—and black truffles. Dessert can be equally decadent: a
confection called Chocopistachio proves to be a malted chocolate
cake with caramelized pistachio ice cream, served with a sugar
cookie spoon.
And yet, arguably, it’s the Crepe Passion, a passion fruit pancake
soufflé—a combination of citrus and cream, tart and sweet—which best
reflects why Brazilians and French should spend more time together.
Subtle and assertive at the same time, it’s a bit like seeing Gisele
Bundchen in a Dior dress: the kind of gastronomic treat that steals
the show and seals the deal. As they say at the Blue Door, Vive
les Cariocas!
Best always,
Mark and Robert
|
|
