Though the address is 88th and Broadway, once you
cross the threshold of Aix, you might easily imagine that you’ve
entered the private home of a wealthy Park Avenue industrialist
with sublime taste in furnishings and a knack for surrounding
him/herself with the right kind of people. There’s such a warm
glow and pleasant buzz that immediately you feel at home. This
is clearly the townhouse you’ve been searching for, ever since
you arrived in Manhattan – and you’re ready to move in
tomorrow. There’s a person to take your coats and another to
lead you upstairs to your table, through a lounge and past a
throng so convivial and animated you might, on any other
evening, consider joining them for drinks and nibbles. But to
do so would be to miss out on a lovely mezzanine perch
overlooking the lights of Broadway and the cabs moving up and
down the avenue in such orderly fashion, and also you would miss
the table of ten celebrants, so well-coiffed and well-heeled
that surely they must’ve migrated from the East Side for the
evening. There’s a birthday and she’s lovely: silver-haired and
chic in a striking Chanel suit.
And meanwhile, at your table, the waiter is patient and thorough
as your guests request something without dairy – and this at a
French restaurant. Mais ce n’est pas un problem.
Nothing is a problem at Aix. The cocktails are innovative,
variants on classic with fresh ingredients, such as an apple
martini infused with les pommes vrais. The menu is
particularly accommodating, not only for vegetarians but for
those on particular diets, and yet still succeeds in honoring
one of the great culinary traditions of the world. Order from
the grill if you are on a specific regime, or from a
pasta/sandwich carte if you’re not feeling particularly
famished. An appetizer of grilled marinated asparagus with
baby red, yellow and candy striped beets, shitake mushrooms,
goat cheese and walnut vinaigrette is hearty, the asparagus
thick enough to sink your teeth into. And an entree of basmati
risotto with roasted porcini mushrooms, parmesan, thyme and
garlic sabayon is rich without becoming cloying, the basmati
rice keeping it light and toothful without the customary
heaviness of risotto. Similarly, the papardelle tossed with
brown butter, roasted garlic, cracked pepper and arugula has a
luxuriant smoothness with a complementary bite. Desserts are
equally elegant: medjool dates stuffed with almonds warmed with
vanilla, cinnamon, Acacia honey and served with crème fraiche
ice cream, and also a perfectly-sized Meyer lemon souffle. The
coffee arrives in a silver pot. The waitstaff is attired in
black, and ever-attentive, without being fawning. Clearly,
there’s a majordomo at this townhouse who knows that guest
comfort is a laudable goal and always within reach.
Time passes, the night wanes, and yet still there’s the clink of
crystal and the flow of conversation, laughter from below. It’s
tempting to inquire about breakfast. Suddenly the thought of
leaving such a pleasing environment is almost too much to bear –
for Aix is the restaurant you might wish were home.
