| |
ROOMS
Located in two early nineteenth-century stone buildings on rue St.
Paul Ouest (which flanks the St. Lawrence river), the Nelligan’s
suites include fireplaces—and given that we don’t have a fireplace
at our domicile, we’re thrilled to find out we’ve been upgraded.
Mind you, this particular suite is on the first floor—which means no
view, or rather a view of a stone wall. And yes, the suite is a bit
dark—but then so is Montreal in October. That fireplace more than
compensates for the non-existent view, and so does the Jacuzzi in
the bathroom, large enough to seat four comfortably—which is good
given that there’s no shower. Therefore, we’re forced to bathe—and
linger, longer than usual. Forced relaxation—there are worse ways of
finding inner peace. Furthermore, the bath products are exquisite
(and abundant): a company called Essential Elements.
Overall, the suite’s design scheme might be described as cozy chic.
Think Pottery Barn’s high-end line, or perhaps Room and Board.
Furnishings are dark and textured, chenille and velour, a
walnut-framed mirror, nickel-plated hardware—all of which complement
the stonework and the brick walls. There’s a wall-length
desk/console and an ebony coffee table in front of a plush couch.
For some people, the suite might feel like a cave—but for us, it’s a
perfect sanctuary: comfy and cozy and private.
PUBLIC SPACES
Cleverly designed to flow one into the other, the Nelligan has
created no less than four public spaces for enjoying cocktails,
breakfast, tea, or conversation.
At the far end of the lobby (and with its own separate entrance onto
rue St. Paul Ouest), the restaurant Verses serves us a delightful
meal while we wait for our suite to be readied. Complete with
starched linens and heavy silver, there is, nonetheless, a kind of
relaxed European elegance about the room. We surrounded by
businessmen and couples—and two extremely fashionable parents who
arrive, three youngsters in tow. At first we’re nervous: children at
the next table. But quickly we realize we’re witnessing one of the
most well behaved families on the planet. The parents are clearly
perfect, and the children adore them, in an unobtrusive manner—and
as for us, we’re hypnotized in love.
Next door to Verses, through a large portal, there’s the atrium
lounge/bar, a lovely spot for a glass of wine—or should one prefer
tea, there’s a library/lounge beyond that, complete with piano, and
finally, an indoor verandah with a view onto the street. The flow is
as easy and gracious as the vibe.
BREAKFAST
Presented on the bar in the atrium, the breakfast buffet comprises
some of the best European breakfast traditions: pastry and
croissants, muesli and yogurt, honey and coffee, and fruit. The
service is polished and courteous—and a gentle reminder of the
overall kindness of the people of Montreal.
PERSONNEL
Maybe it’s in the water. Something that enables the hospitality
industry in Montreal to be so pleasant. They rarely seem harried,
and never impolite. There’s calmness in their voices, and sweetness
in their smiles. And when we request a hostess gift for a party
we’re attending, they beautifully wrap a box of house chocolates.
LOCATION
In the heart of Vieux Montreal, along the horse and buggy route, the
Nelligan is but a few paces to the river. Shops and restaurants
abound—as do tourists from everywhere. But once one steps into the
Nelligan’s lobby, there’s little sense of the bustle just outside
its doors.
OVERVIEW
With its combination of refinement and comfort, the Nelligan
reflects some of the best qualities of time spent in Montreal. One
evening there’s a wedding reception filling the lobby—two grooms had
tied the knot—and the joy evinced by the wedding guests spilled over
and enveloped those of us staying at the hotel. Heartwarming,
indeed; that’s the Nelligan. |
|
