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11/11-16/04 |
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Hotel Bel-Ami |
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7-11 rue St-Benoit, 75006 Paris, France |
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Telephone +33
(0) 1 42 61 53 53 |
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www.hotel-bel-ami.com |
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ROOMS
In a city notorious for les petites chambres, surely this room was
the smallest of them all. We’d only just landed in Paris after a
long-delayed flight—and now here we were, cramped in a dormer room
with slanting ceilings and a bed that kept hitting our shins as we
attempted to maneuver around each other. Finally we collapsed—and
slept—but upon awakening, we immediately went downstairs and spoke
to the front desk. Either we move to another room—or we’re moving to
another hotel. Fortunately, the kind front desk manager showed us to
another room, on a lower floor, where the ceilings were not
slanted—and the just-renovated room done in shades of orange,
saffron and pumpkin (rather than icy blue)—and where it was at least
possible to pass around the bed without banging into it. In other
words, this second room was at least six inches larger.
There was also the matter of excessive heating—in November. And an
abundance of overly-styled and oversized furnishings, wildly out of
proportion to the room’s intimate size. Lampshades the size of small
cars, for example. Too much stuff for too little space.
As for the bathroom—well, let’s just say that even Tokyo (or
Manhattan) has larger bathrooms. This one was closer to a closet.
Strictly for one person at a time—no exceptions. The kind of shower
door that swings open and blocks the toilet and renders the door
unopenable. Lovely toiletries—and abundant—but there was hardly
enough room to squeeze the tubes. This is the kind of bathroom that
could, if you let it, put you in a negative frame of mind before you
even left the room.
All this, combined with the heat, might well cause frustration to
rear its ugly head.
PUBLIC SPACES
A stylish and calm lobby—if somewhat predictable. Comfortable sofas
and small vases with flowers and larger ones holding flowering
branches. A small bar serving overpriced American
cocktails—alongside a small lounge with a huge plasma-screen
television—tuned to soccer games. Two small computer desks in the
lobby for checking one’s email. And, at the time of our stay,
renovation of the far end of the lobby—for a future breakfast room
that, to our mind, could be a most pleasing addition.
BREAKFAST
Perhaps the best part of our four-night stay—and this, even though
the breakfast room was, at the time, subterranean (no longer, given
the upstairs lobby’s completed renovation—and what was once the
breakfast room is now the hotel’s spa). And also, in spite of the
fact that the room was often overseen by an individual who could
only be described as a kind of Teutonic warden. And yet, even so,
breakfast at the Bel-Ami was a decided highlight—for the food. Oh,
the food. Those croissants, that butter. The bread. The jams.
Everything offered that is often offered elsewhere—and yet never
tastes quite as good as it does in Paris. A silver pitcher of
coffee. Eggs if you want them. Pastries and cheeses. Enough to
fortify you for what has suddenly become a glorious day ahead.
PERSONNEL
Helpful and bi-lingual, the staff is accustomed to dealing with
non-French speaking guests (a fact which might be a very big
positive for some, and less so for others). In fact, the hotel is
filled with well-heeled Americans—and served by a concierge who
procures reservations with ease.
LOCATION
In the center of St. Germain-des-Pres, at the heart of what was once
the home of le tout Paris. Arts and letters Paris. Culture and
style. Louis Vuitton around the corner, as well as CafÈ de Flore and
Les Deux Magots and Brasserie Lipp. All locales well known to
Americans familiar with the expatriate experience. Alas, the
neighborhood is also quite touristy—and a number of restaurants prey
upon firstcomers to Paris. It’s a lovely neighborhood to wander—but
then, aren’t most quartiers de Paris?
OVERVIEW
Given its location in one of the more desirable neighborhoods of
Paris (at least for those who value comfort and ease and a kind of
easy-on-the-eye experience), the Bel-Ami charges accordingly. You
pay for the English-fluent staff and the lack of discomfort you
might feel in a more French-populated establishment. You pay a lot
for rooms that are too small. You pay for the calm that embraces you
when you enter the well-appointed lobby with its shelter-magazine
furnishings. In short, the Bel-Ami is a pleasant enough hotel to
return to after a day spent stalking the boutiques of the
neighborhood—just be sure all those shopping bags will fit in your
chambre. |
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